dinosaur wrangler and magician
Day 3 in Wales, in which there is a Cock Tower, more Cream Tea, and a Very Dramatic Storm 
25th-Sep-2009 10:08 am
Sexy Odin
The Monday fun started Sunday night, around 830pm, when the power in the B&B went out. It was rainy andCaernarfon there was a little bit of lightning, but nothing to constitute power outages that we could tell. We never heard any thunder, and the wind was minimal.

When we woke up Monday, it was still out. However, we got our hot breakfast, because Gwawr our hostess, is awesome and has a stove that never turns off. It's gas, and I can't remember what it's called (Natalie?), but I had my melted Welsh cheese and toast with roasted tomato, and Natalie had her veggie big breakfast thing. And despite the rain we got in the car and headed for Caernarfon.

That pic to the right is us at Caernarfon castle, and remember that the power was out so there was no hair dryer or much in the way of light to get dressed. Don't judge us by our hair.

I wish I had the pictures of our drive, but they're haven't been uploaded to Flickr yet. Suffice it to say, we drove through a mountain pass with misty rain and fog so thick we were taking it on faith alone that the road ahead didn't just end, sending us careening over the cliff edge to a flaming Welsh death. There will definitely be a Massive Driving and Other Travels post next week.

However, we were lucky in that nobody else was out. Monday was a bank holiday, and apparently nobody in the UK gets out the door before 9 like we do. We were at Caernarfon by 10, and practically had the castle to ourselves. Which was nice, because it was effing HUGE.

Caernarfon from Above

It's the home of a permanent museum display about the Welsh Fusiliers. One of the giant towers was full, on all floors, with clothes, weapons, and other artifacts, as well as the history of the Fusiliers. We read about their part in just about every conflict the UK has been a part of, from the 16th century, to the American Revolution, to Afghanistan, where they occasionally speak Welsh instead of using a code. One room was like a memorial, and had the names of the Fusiliers inscribed into the walls like at the Vietnam Memorial Wall. Also, there was this cool stained glass:

Inside the walls of Caernarfon

Caernarfon was also known as the Castle of a Hundred Million Spiral Staircases.

Twisted stairwell

Ok, not really. But we went up

Tess in a Caernarfon Tower

and down

Natalie in a Caernarfon Tower

A LOT OF THEM. And, for the record, there is NO WAY you're getting up or down those in armor. That's why you had pages and stuff. The stairways were so narrow and steep, and the beneficial rope rails we had are not historically accurate. They were on their own way back then. Good lord.

Random cool shot from on top of a tower, with Welsh flag.

Welsh Flag atop Caernarfon

See all those towers? That's only about a third of the castle, and we went up THEM ALL.

Caernarfon Towers and Bay

In the bottom of one of the towers was this guy

The Knight of Caernarfon

And an older guy in civvies. They were so happy to see some real people that early that they pretty much forced us to listen as if we didn't know anything about swords and armor. I behaved and pretended to be a girl when they offered me the sword so I could whack on the dude's shield. It was fun. See?

Tess the Furious

I love this alcove, and want it in my house for a reading nook. I'd add pillows of course.

Alcove, Caernarfon

Can you see our car? It's third from the right in the back row. Good little Nissan Micra!

The Town of Caernarfon...again

Isn't it a cute little town? I love rows of houses/shops painted like that.

The Town of Caernarfon....yet again

Next, we headed for Criccieth. We were kind of hungry, but when we parked next to the castle the only place around was a hotel cafe closed for the bank holiday. So we tromped down to the beach. It was cold and rainy (of course) but the! ocean! We picked up some rocks for [info]otterdancing and realized there was a a lot more rain blowing in.

The Storm of Criccieth

Criccieth Shoreline

We headed for the castle, which you can see poking up a little here. It was another crumbling Welsh castle, like Dollwyddelan keep. As we got to it, the rain came down in earnest, so we ducked into a little alcove and huddled there for about 15 minutes getting damp. Very damp. But the stone walls cut the wind and the view extremely dramatic. I thought, hey, I've read this book. This is where our intrepid adventurers sleep for the night, wrapped together under a big cloak eating hard cheese until falling asleep under the moon. Fortunately, we didn't have to say too long, and no Ring Wraiths showed up.

It didn't take too long to explore what was left of Criccieth.

Criccieth sans other people

Tess Explores Criccieth

Back in the visitor's center, we asked for a place to get some tea. We were cold, wet, and starving. Happily, there was a tea house a few blocks away. Instead of ordering something hot or healthy, we couldn't help just going with cream tea again.

Post-Criccieth Cream Tea!

It wasn't quite as good as the other, but still delicious! And Natalie snapped this, possibly my fav pic from the trip (despite the random head over my shoulder).

Tess in the Tea House

Our last stop of the day was Castle Harlech. Which is a castle, and town, shoved up onto a cliff. It looked very Euro with it's tiny (TINY) winding streets and town center piled on top of itself. (And there's our car again. What? I liked taking pics of it from on top of castles, ok?)

Town of Harlech

Harlech had a few spiral stairways, like this one which hasn't been renovated (clearly). But since we didn't have Adam anymore, nobody climbed it.

Harlech Stairwell

The coolest stairs were the ones just cut into the walls.

Towers of Harlech

This chimney was so cool. There were three floors below it, and each floor had a fireplace with a chimney that spiraled up into this single one, so the smoke from below wouldn't get into the firepalce above. Keen, no?

Twisted Chimney of Harlech

Harlech!

Harlech Main Gate

Harlech Inner

Gorgeous view!

Harlech Fields

More stairs!

Wicked Cool Stairs of Harlech

Stairs of Harlech

Last, but never least, the Cock Tower.

.....you read it.

I don't even remember what it really said back there.

Monday night deserves a post of it's own, so... soon to come!

free hit counter
Comments 
25th-Sep-2009 04:18 pm (UTC)
The stove is probably an Aga.
25th-Sep-2009 04:20 pm (UTC)
yep!
25th-Sep-2009 06:44 pm (UTC)
I am so glad to see it spelled. The way they were pronouncing it, I would have sworn it had 2 rs in it.
25th-Sep-2009 06:47 pm (UTC)
Mary Stewart often refers to characters cooking on Agas in her books. I'm envious that you got to see one in person.
25th-Sep-2009 06:57 pm (UTC)
We actually got to see 2. One in my brother-in-law's house:

Stockham Kitchen
25th-Sep-2009 07:01 pm (UTC)
Wow. That's quite the kitchen.
26th-Sep-2009 08:38 pm (UTC)
I thought the exact same thing for AGES! I think I only figured it out when Matt took me to an Aga store (3 years after we started dating). I think there are R's in lots of words where apparently there is not just because of the accent. Why can't they speak like normal people?!
25th-Sep-2009 04:20 pm (UTC)
Please tell me that you guys have been to Capel Curig and up Snowdonia!!??!!
25th-Sep-2009 04:23 pm (UTC)
We went through Capel Curig several times, but we didn't go up Snowdonia. We thought, hey, it's raining and we've been up a few mountains 12 times taller than Snowdonia... let's go see some burial mounds and another castle instead! ;)
25th-Sep-2009 07:01 pm (UTC)
No thunder or wind or dramatic storming during a power outage? That takes all the fun out of it!

I'm still greatly enjoying the images you're posting. I especially love the one of the modern city stretching out into the background as that wonderful castle looms up in the foreground! (Who opened that window to another world, and can I follow them around for a little while?)
25th-Sep-2009 07:02 pm (UTC)
Those are my favorites, too! The modern/magical juxtaposition.

A few more days worth of pictures to come! :D
25th-Sep-2009 09:45 pm (UTC)
"flaming Welsh death"

Can this be a dessert?

Also, awesome pics. I may just have to seethe with envy a bit. *seethe*
26th-Sep-2009 12:37 am (UTC)
Okay, the contrast of perky red barettes and a sword does it for me.

*GLEE*

Also, that first spiral staircase is really precise looking. I assume it had been renovated? Or was not very often used? The stairs look really modern when contrasted to the wall. In either case, I'd definitely need the rope to help haul my butt up them!
2nd-Oct-2009 01:13 pm (UTC)
I love my barrettes. They're like my disguise. "I'm cute and harmless! I swear!"

And yes, all the staircases we actually walked on were renovated. A few of them were renovated more than a hundred years ago... but they were still just a little bit worn down.
26th-Sep-2009 02:48 am (UTC)
Awesome. I used to dream about castles when I was a kid, and lots of green hills. You both look good in photos, a skill I've yet to master.
2nd-Oct-2009 01:14 pm (UTC)
I still dream about castles.

We practiced looking good for pictures. Digital cameras are good for that. :D
26th-Sep-2009 05:00 am (UTC)
We stayed in a B&B in Harlech that was full of pigs. Stuffed pigs, pig statues, pig plaques. Everywhere. The mistress of the house was obsessed. Very weird. And hilarious. And coolest stone circle adventure outside of Harlech to Bryn Cader Faner. Faery guides and death to Roman legions by bog. Awesome. :) I'm loving your travelogue.
2nd-Oct-2009 01:18 pm (UTC)
that's a lot of pigs!

I'm so sad we missed Bryn Cader Faner, though! Alas.

I'm going to try to put up our Day of Stones today, so stay tuned!!!
26th-Sep-2009 05:34 pm (UTC)
Ooo! Castles! Stone stairs! Tess with a sword! Who could resist?!?

You ladies look like you're having a FANTASTIC time!!
2nd-Oct-2009 01:19 pm (UTC)
It was pretty amazing all around. :D
This page was loaded Dec 25th 2009, 3:02 am GMT.